Marker is skinny paper which contains all necessary pieces of pattern to make good garments. The marker is used usually placed on the fabric lay for cutting guidance of fabric. On this system marker efficiency is most important. Marker efficiency depends on the fabric effort, expertness, responsibility, experience, and technical knowledge of marker planner. The size of garments is the more the different size of pattern paper in a marker. The more will be the marker sufficiency but large number of different size case exception.
Marker efficiency will increase with the increasing marker length and increase by changing the pattern design of some parts of garments. Marker efficiency will be more in the fabric is symmetric and vice versa. The methods of marker making are more in computerized than manual but much time is necessary for this technique. In this process higher the marker width easier the marker planning and then the marker efficiency will be increase. Types of garments and the higher the number of big pattern pieces of garments lower the efficiency of marker.
Constraints of marker making
Grain line: grain line is more effective constraint of marker marking because of grain line. Sometimes it is tough to place the pattern onto the marker, even though it is possible the wastage become higher. Fabric characteristics: fabric which can retain the same appearance while turning in 180° angle called symmetric fabric. They required no special attestation no special attestation during marker making. Asymmetric fabrics are those which cannot retain the same appearance while turning in 1800 angle. Nature of the fabric may sometimes regard as a constraint of marker making.
Constraints of marker making
Grain line: grain line is more effective constraint of marker marking because of grain line. Sometimes it is tough to place the pattern onto the marker, even though it is possible the wastage become higher.
Fabric characteristics: fabric which can retain the same appearance while turning in 180° angle called symmetric fabric. They required no special attestation no special attestation during marker making. Asymmetric fabrics are those which cannot retain the same appearance while turning in 1800 angle. Nature of the fabric may sometimes regard as a constraint of marker making.
Design of garments: sometimes garments may require special design like mirror image, the some appearance in lower front and lower front part in this case both the fabric and pattern pieces should be laid down with special care so that we can get desired design and get a better garments.
Production Planning: production planning includes the rate of production, types of garments, sixes of garments etc. when an order is placed for quantity of garments, it normally specifics a quantity of each size and color if the sewing room requires the cut components urgently. The marker planner has to make two types of marker.
Methods of marker planning
Manual technique:
Manual technique a man performs it by himself using hands. It is a conventional method that requires more time there are different system of manual technique. Pinup all the pattern pieces directly on fabric. Paint sprays fabric. Marker by pen/pencil in a large paper. Light sensitive paper technique. Marker by chalk on fabric.
Computerized method:
This is the best method as gives higher marker efficiency. In this method the pattern size, pattern pieces, grade rule screening are fed to the computer and set in the memory which produces marker automatically. There are two different types of computerized method Digitizing and CAD System. In this system the working pattern are placed on to the digitizing table, then clicking according to the pattern dimension. And scanner is one types of machine like photo copier. The working patterns are placed on to the glass of the scanner and them marker is made for a selected size.
Aims of marker making for garments: the garments industries has to pay a great attention to the marker planning because when the cutting rooms cuts cloth it spreads around half the company’s turnover. Any reduction in the amount of cloth of used per garments leads to an increase an increase in profit. Marker planning is a conceptualizing, open and visualizes the marker as a whole or to see it at a glance.
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